You don't need a weekend in Hakone for a proper onsen. Tokyo has natural hot springs and big spa complexes you can reach on the subway after work. They're bigger and pricier than a sento, with rest areas, restaurants and nap rooms. Here are four that are easy to use as a foreigner, plus how to handle the tattoo question.
Budget¥600–4,000
Time2–4 hours
Best forRainy days, rest days, visitors
BringNothing but your IC card (towels on site)
Real hot springs, low price
1 Maenohara Onsen Saya no Yudokoro (Itabashi)
The local favourite: free-flowing, greenish natural hot spring water, a beautiful Japanese garden around the outdoor baths, and handmade soba in the restaurant. Private family baths are available for an extra fee per hour, which is a good option if you have tattoos or want privacy.
2 Yu-City Kamata
Technically a sento, but the water is natural black hot spring. The cheapest real onsen in Tokyo. Details in our sento guide.
Big city spas
3 Spa LaQua (Tokyo Dome City)
A natural hot spring on the upper floors of a shopping complex, with open-air baths, several saunas, lounges and restaurants. The new after-work night rate makes it much easier to justify on a weeknight.
4 Tokyo Toyosu Manyo Club
Next to Toyosu Market, with hot spring water trucked in from Hakone and Yugawara, a rooftop foot bath with bay and city views, and rest areas for an overnight stay. Pricey, but it's a mini onsen trip without the train.
The tattoo question
- Big spa complexes often refuse visible tattoos, sometimes allowing small ones covered with a sticker. Rules change, so check each facility's site before you go.
- Neighbourhood sento usually accept tattoos; they're public baths.
- Private baths (kashikiri) let you bathe with friends or a partner with no rules about ink.
- Japan's tourism agency has asked facilities to be more flexible, but the decision is each facility's.
Onsen manners
- Wash fully before entering; no swimwear; towel out of the water.
- Tie up long hair. Keep your voice down in the bath.
- Drink water. Long soaks plus sauna dehydrate you fast, especially after a beer.
Words that work
- タトゥーがありますが、入れますか? (tatuu ga arimasu ga, hairemasu ka?) — I have a tattoo. Can I go in?
- 貸切風呂はありますか? (kashikiri buro wa arimasu ka?) — Do you have private baths?
- ナイト料金は何時からですか? (naito ryoukin wa nanji kara desu ka?) — From what time is the night rate?
Living in Tokyo, it's easy to forget you're on a volcanic island. Then you sit in hot spring water bubbling up under a Tokyo suburb, and remember. It's the cheapest holiday in the city.
— John Nanjo
Keep reading
- Tokyo Sento Under ¥1,000
- Cheap Day Trips From Tokyo by Train
- All resident guides: Living in Japan · Sento & Onsen
Sources: Rurubu – Saya no Yudokoro, Jorudan – Spa LaQua night rate, Walkerplus – Tokyo Toyosu Manyo Club prices, Jorudan – Yu-City Kamata, CNN – Japan Tourism Agency on tattoos
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